What’s the Rush to Terengganu ?

Welcome to Terengganu

My family and I went back home to Terengganu to celebrate Eidul Adha on 26th November 2009. I thought the traffic would be smooth as this festival was not supposed to be as grand as Eidul Fitri celebration. So not many people would be going home to the East Coast. I was wrong, in fact doubly wrong as the traffic was twice as much. I forgot that Eidul Adha was always celebrated as grand as Eidul Fitri for the people of Terengganu and it’s neighbour, Kelantan. Due to heavy flooding at certain areas, Kelantanese people may take the coastal Terengganu road as alternative.

We had to wait until my daughter finished her class presentation at her college nearby. We left Subang Jaya only at 2pm. At first, everything was smooth sailing until we reached Karak Toll to enter Karak Highway. Then only i realised that it would be a long journey. To make the matter worse, there was road repairing work going on. Could they do it on other day? Probably not. Well, ok , i told my self to be positive. At least they tried to make the road safe for everyone. The traffic was crawling all the way until we reached the East Coast Highway. Thank God ! the East Coast High way was ok.

I took my own sweet time driving slowly as i was carrying precious cargo; my whole family. We stopped at the R&R rest area to eat. There i met a family from Ajil. The husband told me that he wished he could reach exit to Ajil before night time as he did not want to drive through the coastal road, the road which i would take. I asked him why? He said coastal road was further in distance but the Ajil road even though was shorter distance, the condition was bad due to the rainy season and recent flood.  It would be too dangerous to drive at night with so many pot holes. I said to my self it was still early and enough time to reach that exit. And he did not look like in a hurry either !!

I then continued the journey. The highway ended at Jabor Exit. There we saw the end of the East Coast Highway. We have been seing that many times and everytime we went to Terengganu. My son asked me ” when will the highway be completed all the way to Kuala Terengganu ? “. I said ” i wish i can say it will be completed by tomorrow “. Yes i did wish that way. We reached Chukai Town in Kemaman at about 6.30 pm. There the nighmare started. The traffic was crawling through the town. Impatient and no discipline drivers also contibuted to the situation. People only thought about themselves. They cut queue at traffic lights and anywhere they could. Then buses and big lorries joined the” fun”. When i took a glance at the drivers, their faces looked like so cool and normal. Maybe all these cutting queqe etc were just part and parcel of driving. Just like a procedure to be followed. Monkeys see, monkeys do

We reached Dungun Town which i think is only  about 60 km three hours later.  There was no rain and the flood condition improved compared to a day before. However, there were many pot holes on the road. Because of that, i drove carefully to avoid any untowards incident. We all felt very tired. I felt very frustrated. The only motivation i had was that, the next day was Eidul Adha. Anyway, we reached home at about 10.30pm. We were in Terengganu for only two days. We went back to Subang Jaya on sunday. At first i was worried too. It started to rain again, the monsoon season was not over yet. All the relatives i asked about going back to Kuala Lumpur told me that Sunday would be the day. It would be another nightmare? No it did not. Traffic was heavy but the flow was smooth.

Floating mosque

I was born and raised in Terengganu. Terengganu has long been an important trade stopover on routes through the South China Sea, and early records by Chinese merchants indicate that the port was in operation as early as the 6th century. However, detailed historical records don’t exist until the 1300s, when Terengganu was incorporated as an Islamic state.  A monument adorned with Arabic carvings indicates that Islam was well practiced at the dawn of the 14^th century; and as such, Terengganu was the first of the Malayan states to embrace Islam.

Maziah Palace has become a ceremonial palace

In 1724, Terengganu was formally declared an independent sultanate. Friendly ties with the Sultan of Johor strengthened the new state during the first 100 years of its establishment. In fact, the first Sultan of Terengganu, Tun Zainal Abidin, was the brother of a previous Sultan of Johor. In the 1800s, Terengganu fell under the control of the Kingdom of Siam (modern day Thailand). The sultan at the time worked hard to keep Siam at bay, and at times the relationship between these two countries seemed little more than a formality. However, an early 20^th century agreement between Siam and Great Britain saw a shift in the power scheme—an unpopular move with the local population.

Bukit Puteri near Maziah Palace, overlooking Terengganu River mouth

Great Britain incorporated Terengganu into the Unfederated Malay States. An uprising in 1928 prompted action by British military forces. WWII and the subsequent Japanese invasion changed everything, however. After the war, power was handed back to Thailand until 1948, when Terengganu became part of the Federation of Malaya. A decade later, the Federation of Malaya became the independent country of Malaysia and Terengganu became one its member states. Oil and natural gas were recently discovered offshore in Terengganu and what was once Malaysia’s poorest state has seen an enormous economic boom. The petroleum industry has quickly overtaken fishing and agriculture, and revenue has been invested in establishing tourism infrastructure.

Man-made Kenyir Lake

My late grandmother once told me about our history in Terengganu. Our ancestors were from Southern China of Yunan Province. My brother under grandma’s guidance, made a family tree all the way to that period. My great great grandfather, probably during the era of Sultan Zainal Abidin arrived in Terengganu with his father. However, his father passed away when he was still a boy. Fortunately for him, a ‘ tabib ‘ or physician who worked at the palace adopted him.  So most of the family members either worked in the palace or around it. I remember when i was small, my mother used to take me the old palace area to meet her auntie. The auntie was the palace chief cook. Now we do not go there anymore. I am the 7th generation.

The new Kedai Payang Central MarketMuseum of Terengganu

The present King of Malaysia, His Majesty Sultan Mizan Zainal Abidin  is the Sultan of Terengganu. The position is rotated among the sultans of the states in Malaysia. I still remember when i first entered Sultan Sulaiman Secondary School, i played a takraw game on the ground with out the net. There His Majesty Sultan Mizan was playing too. I did not know who he was at that time. He was the son of the Regent of Terengganu, the late Sultan Mahmud. At that time , the Sultan of Terengganu was the His Majesty’s grandfather, the late Sultan Ismail Nasiruddin Shah. I remember after form three, His Majesty went to Australia to further his studies.

Shop for Batik and Songket

When ever i go back to Terengganu, i never missed to visit Kedai Payang Central Market. I like to walk around between stalls and small shops selling traditional Terengganu food, t-shirts, batik, songket and souvenirs. Of course the most famous food will be ‘ keropok lekor ‘ or the food made of fish and sago flour. Terengganu is also famous for its brass handicraft. Last few years, Terengganu became the host country for International Monsoon Cup sailing regatta. There is so many things to see and do in Terengganu like the big Kenyir Lake and beautiful island like Perhentian Island and Kapas Island.

Monsoon Cup regatta

But, what’s the rush? Take it slowly, development should go hand in hand with other important things such as, healthcare, moral, religion, environment and most importantly, Human Beings.

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